Safari Spirit, Day 2: Ideal Cove, 3 Lakes Trail, and LeConte Glacier

We woke early today, still not quite used to the time change. Ideal Cove was breathtaking in the morning mist and the day held much promise. We all gathered for breakfast at 8 and enjoyed a hearty meal, knowing we'd be hiking the 3 Lakes Trail in Tongass National Forest within the hour.

I'm not really an outdoorsy person and I'm definitely not all that athletic, but I do enjoy easy to intermediate hikes and expedition leader Nitakuwa assured me that this particular hike would be a breeze—she was right. The trail's elevation was gentle and all hiking was done on a wooden boardwalk covered with fish net. The traction was great...even in the rain (yes, it rained, this is a rain forest after all).

The hardest part was actually getting to the trail. We loaded in the skiff and headed for shore where we had to gingerly walk over thousands of mussels and sea grass. It ws very slippery and I was so glad to have taken one of the walking sticks kept aboard the Safari Spirit.




After the hike, we headed back to the yacht for a terrific lunch before gearing up to visit LeConte Glacier, part of the Stikine Icefield. During the Pleistocene Age, North America was basically covered in sheets of ice. The Stikine Icefield was around in those days and can still be viewed in Alaska where various glaciers astonish visitors on a daily basis.



In 2006 we spent a few days in Anchorage and Kodiak, Alaska, but we never got very close to a glacier so we had no idea what to expect at LeConte. We had no idea what a magical experience we were in for.

LeConte is about 21 miles long and one mile wide and is the southernmost tidewater glacier. Sometimes you can get very close to the glacier and at other times, like today, you can only go as far as the icebergs will allow. This particular glacier is actually fairly stable and hasn't receeded as much as other glaciers, such as Juneau's Mendenhall.

Prior to departing for LeConte on the skiff, Nitakuwa warned us that it would be cold so we'd best wear the mustang suits provided by American Safari. She also told us that Harbor seals live and give birth on the icebergs, so we'd need to be very quiet. These creatures are quite skittish and any sound or sudden movement will cause them to dive into the icy water to hide.




Danny, the engineer and ship's mate, expertly piloted the skiff and wove in and out of the various glacial outcroppings. It was a gorgeous day and the sun glistened off the ice. It was pin-drop quiet and as we took in the mountains, the ice field, and the hundreds of Harbor seals going about their business, I suddenly felt very tiny and unimportant. What an amazing world we live in when we just take a few minutes to stop and see it in its most natural state!


Despite the cold, the experience was so special that none of us wanted to leave. Nitakuwa came prepared and served us hot chocolate with peppermint schnapps and whipped cream! That kept us going and we stayed out on the water for quite some time.


The scenery was just stunning and affected us all. It was finally time to return to the Safari Spirit and Danny once again criss-crossed the field of ice. It was just spectacular—something I'll never forget! —Andrea

Photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission

Safari Spirit, Day 1: All About the Safari Spirit

Upon arriving at the dock, the m/y Safari Spirit crew was ready and waiting for us. On this particular sailing there are just eight passengers, so we know we'll enjoy one-on-one service and in-depth conversations with each crew member. Steward Kim Dahm showed us to our Mariner cabin, C2, on the lower Cabin Deck and then invited us to the salon once we settled in.

The excitment was building and we couldn't wait for the official "sailaway"! We quickly unpacked, gave our suitcases to Kim to store for the duration of the trip, and scampered upstairs where everyone was gathering for a champagne toast. Captain Tate welcomed us and again introduced us to the rest of the crew. He and expedition leader, Nitakuwa, then outlined the plans for the evening: set sail and travel 16 miles to Ideal Cove, also on Mitkof Island, where we'd anchor for the evening. (American Safari yachts only sail during the day and anchor at night, so guests don't miss any of the breathtaking scenery.)

But, we had some last-minute business to tend to. One guest's camera was on the fritz, so the crew contacted a few local shops to see if a replacement could be located. It couldn't since the shops had closed for the evening, but a crew member lent a camera to this guest for the week. Another guest happened to mention his penchant for spicy tomato juice, so another crewman ran out to the grocery store to pick up some stores. These incidences, right at the beginning of our journey, reinforced why a cruise with American Safari is so unique. With such a small complement of guests, personalized service is rendered on a level the mainstream cruise lines could never entertain.

With these last-minute issues taken care of, we raised anchor and sailed away from Petersburg. The weather was beautiful and sunny so all guests could be found up on deck, drinking champagne and watching as Petersburg became just another dot on the horizon.

Before we knew it, it was time for dinner. Now, when you sail with American Safari, you'll immediately notice the attention to detail on the most minute scale. The communal dining table was impeccably and inventively set for each and every meal. As was Chef Dave's custom, he planned two main dinner entrees to choose from. Tonight, the choice was prime rib and risotto or crab and tortellini pasta with cream sauce. (You could also order half and half.) Those with allergies or specific requests were catered to with additonal menu alterations.

Every meal was incredible and Chef Dave's homemade bread and desserts were absolutely scrumptious! We've sailed on many, many cruise lines over the years and I do believe the cuisine aboard the Safari Spirit sets the bar higher than other luxury lines. The quality of the ingredients, including fresh fish and seafood caught just hours before it hit our plates, was top notch. Chef Dave also focused on light and healthy lunches with gourmet salads, soups, and sandwiches. Dinners were more hearty and each dessert was better than the one we enjoyed the night before! Definitely five stars!

The Yacht
Now, a bit about the ship itself. The Safari Spirit is a 105-foot motor-yacht with a beam of 24.5 feet and a 6-foot draft. She was completely rebuilt and redecorated in 2005. It's perhaps the cleanest and best maintained ship I've sailed in years. To be honest, everything looks brand new—from the exterior paint job to the carpets and furniture to the condition of the "extras" like binoculars, mustang suits, and sea kayaks.

Staterooms
There are six staterooms. Admiral Staterooms, A1 and A2, on the Library Deck feature sliding glass doors right in front of the king bed (can be converted to two twins). The balcony is just a small step-out—no room for chairs—but it's a lovely feature and next time I sail with American Safari, I'd book a stateroom with the sliding glass doors. These cabins also feature a Jacuzzi tub and shower. Unlike many cruise ships with tiny bathrooms that are hard to maneuver, all bathrooms on the Safari Spirit are quite spacious and have heated floors! A wonderful addition when cruising the cold Alaskan waters! The "A" cabins also include a comfy armchair.

The next category of stateroom contains just one cabin, C4, the Captain Stateroom. On the lower Cabin Deck, this stateroom boasts a king bed and opening port holes in the bedroom and a Jacuzzi tub/shower combo in the bathroom.


The remaining three cabins are Mariner Staterooms, like our own C2. Located just down the stairs from the main meeting area, the Salon, the Mariner cabins feature queen or twin beds, port holes, and a Jacuzzi tub/shower. We found we had plenty of room in C2 and it was very quiet—we never heard any sound from our neighbors and only an occasional noise from upstairs.



All cabins are outfitted with bathrobes and clogs (not slippers as noted in the brochure), a hair dryer, alarm clocks, and a flat-screen TV with DVD player.

Main Deck
Let's discuss the yacht, deck by deck. As I mentioned, the lower-most Cabin Deck houses staterooms C1–C4. Guests, however, spend a lot of time on the Main Deck that features the Salon, the Dining Room, the open Bridge, and the Aft Lounge (which leads to the full-beam swim step that's the load-in/out point for the skiff and kayaks). The galley is also located on the Main Deck.

Travelers mingle in comfort in the Salon with its sectional sofa, two armchairs, a small game table and two high-back chairs, large flat-screen TV with DVD player, and bar (stocked with soda, water, juice, beer, wine, champagne, and other spirits). Each morning from 6:30–8:00 a.m., you'll find an Early Risers Breakfast set up in the Salon. Chef Dave provides a lovely fruit platter, muffins, cereal, and yogurt...enough to tide you over until the full sit-down breakfast at 8. In the afternoon you'll find a wine bar here and at 6:00 p.m., Chef Dave puts out a delectable pre-dinner appetizer. After dinner, guests retire to the Salon for a cordial and some chocolate truffles.




The buffet in the Dining Room is where you can find coffee, tea, and hot chocolate—day and night. The long, rectangular table seats all guests at one sitting for each meal: generally 8:00 a.m. for breakfast, 12:30 p.m. for lunch, and 7:00 p.m. for dinner.

Of course, everything aboard an American Safari ship is dictated by wildlife. If whales are spotted in the area or bears are on the shore, your meal will be interrupted by your very enthusiastic expedition leader who'll give you the opportunity to take a break from the fine dining in order to hop in the skiff for a closer look or at the very least step out on deck for a few minutes. This may happen several times during a journey and we are so glad the crew cares enough to let us know when there is something exciting to see!

The Bridge is open to all guests and is a great place to hang out and watch for wildlife in the sea and on the shore. You'll often find the ship's expedition leader/naturalist on the Bridge or out on deck. On either side of the Bridge are doors leading out to the forward area of the yacht. This is the other popular place to relax and watch for wildlife. Since all American Safari yachts anchor at night and travel by day, you can always visit the Bridge in the evening when it's less crowded.


The Aft Lounge
To the rear of the Salon is the Aft Lounge. This half indoor/half outdoor area and is the place where you'll pull on your rain jacket or mustang suit before hopping in the skiff. In fair weather, meals are eaten here at the beautiful wooden table.




Library Deck
One of my favorite rooms on the m/y Safari Spirit is the Library. Conveniently located on the Library Deck, right above the Bridge, you enjoy wonderful views through the near floor-to-ceiling windows. You'll also, of course, find a selection of books for your reading pleasure.



Right behind the Library is the cedar Sauna. While I didn't use this dry sauna, other guests did and they raved about it, especially since there's a window so you won't miss any of the gorgeous scenery while you unwind.


At the aft of the Library Deck is the outdoor Hot Tub, a spectacular place for star-gazing! And, next to the Hot Tub, you'll find some exercise equipment (stationary bike and elliptical trainer).


Observation Deck
The upper-most deck is the Observation Deck with a "captain's chair" far forward and a few deck chairs and cocktail tables at aft. Another terrific spot for viewing the scenery.





Additional Gear
The Safari Spirit is outfitted with everything needed to enjoy an active Alaskan vacation, including four two-person sea kayaks, a high-speed skiff (like a Zodiac), mustang suits (to keep you warm when visiting the glaciers or out in the skiff; wearing them is optional), two mountain bikes, dozens of pairs of binoculars, fishing poles and gear, and bug repellant and sun screen, and more. If you need it, chances are it's aboard the Safari Spirit.

Day 1 aboard the Safari Spirit is coming to a close and we definitely feel like we made a great decision to explore Alaska with American Safari Cruises. The yacht is so graceful on the water, the crew is fabulous, and our fellow passengers are all so interesting (we're sailing with a lawyer, an actress, a documentarian, a college professor, a British magistrate, and a recently retired corporate finance expert).


We can't wait for the morning! But, for now, we're exhausted and need some sleep!

The following photos are courtesy of American Safari Cruises: Admiral and Captain staterooms, sauna, and hot tub. All other photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission.

Safari Spirit, Day 1: Exploring Petersburg with the Patti Wagon

Alaskans are different. They're tougher than their contemporaries living in the Lower 48 and are often more creative too, having had to carve out a comfortable life in the wilderness without easy access to warehouse shopping outlets and city centers. Alaskans are also some of the most engaging and friendly people you'll ever meet. Case in point: Patti Norheim and her "Patti Wagon" tours. More about Patti in a minute.

As I mentioned in yesterday's message, we arrived here in Petersburg—a town of 3,000 on Mitkof Island, deep in the Tongass National Forest—last night. The island is embraced by Frederick Sound in the northeast, Sumner Straits to the south, and Wrangell Narrows to the west. If you cross Frederick Sound, you'll hit mainland Alaska in the east and if you cross Wrangell Narrows, you'll encounter Kupreanof Island in the west.

There are only two ways to get to Petersburg: fly or take the ferry (Alaska Marine Highway or Inter-island Ferry Authority). We opted to fly in from Juneau via Alaska Airlines. While the runway is nice and long and allows for 737s to land, the airport itself is just one tiny wooden building.

Since we were traveling light and only had our carry-on bags and photo gear, we were off the plane and outside in a flash. Then we faltered—hmm, are there taxi stands in Petersburg? We didn't see any sign of transporation options so I called the Scandia House, where we were staying that night, to ask if they could give me the number of the local cab company (hoping that there was a local cab company!). It turns out, Scandia House provides transportation to and from the airport and a van picked us up within minutes.

Check-in was a breeze and after getting a recommendation for dinner, we walked toward the pier and Rooney's Northern Lights restaurant. It was too cold to dine outside on the deck but we were seated near a window and within five minutes, I caught my first glimpse of an eagle! I knew then that this was going to be a very special trip!

Early the next morning, we explored downtown in a light rain. (Petersburg gets 106 inches of rain per year!) We visited the hardware store and Rexall Drug, where we picked up some much-needed bug repellant. Sing Lee Alley Books was also a treat. Located in a picturesque home, this shop is packed with Alaska-centric books, field guides, maps, and gifts. We purchased a gorgeous map of the Inside Passage, plus a laminated chart depicting the many types of whales, seals, and sea lions that make Alaska home.

At 11 a.m., we checked out of the Scandia House and waited in the lobby to meet the other Safari Spirit passengers for a day tour of Petersburg. We were curious about who else would be joining us on this adventure. With room for just twelve guests, the Safari Spirit promised an intimate environment...which is wonderful if you bond with your fellow travelers and not so hot if you realize you have nothing in common. However, we really shouldn't have ever worried. American Safari Cruises is all about embarking on an adventure to discover a bit more about nature and yourself. Guests tend to be well traveled, environmentally conscious, introspective, and downright friendly.

We met our traveling companions: Daryl and Peter from London and two couples from Los Angeles: Lisa and Victor and Lucy and Greg. As we were all greeting each other, Lisa and Lucy did a double-take...they had gone to college together years before! What a small world!

Then our tour guide, Patti Norheim, arrived wearing an infectious smile and an American Safari Cruises nametag stating "Patti—Living Legend." Petersburg has been Patti's home for over 80 years and she knows just about everything there is to know about the area and its residents. For many years, she owned and operated a popular local giftshop. Patti now handles tours from two small ship cruise lines and runs independent tours through her own company, dubbed the Patti Wagon (907-772-4837).

Patti's "wagon" is a comfortable red van that seats about 10 people. She drove us around Petersburg while providing an interesting commentary about the places and people we passed along the way. We first visited Sandy Beach Park, where you can still see petroglyphs and prehistoric fish traps—the Tlingits were indigenous to this area. There are also free, first-come-first-serve state-run cabins at Sandy Park and we even saw some deer beachcombing!

We then stopped at Patti's sister-in-law's home and enjoyed lunch in the gorgeous dining room facing the water. Since Petersburg has Norwegian roots and is often referred to as "Little Norway"—Peter Buschmann came here from Norway in the late 1800s to open a cannery and many of his countrymen followed him—the menu featured traditional foods such as chicken noodle soup, poached salmon, open-face egg salad sandwiches, and walnut tarts. A lovely crisp white wine, a red wine, and ice tea were also served. We spent some time lounging on the deck and getting to know each other better before moving on to Crystal Lake Hatchery.


After exploring the hatchery we piled back in the van and Patti showed us more of the island, much of it muskeg (bog). At each turn, Petersburg became more and more beautiful. Around 4 p.m., we headed to Patti's home to enjoy some wine and shrimp cocktail. Patti lives right on Wrangell Narrows and I don't think better views can be had in all of Mitkof Island! In fact, as we sat on the deck, an eagle called to us from a nearby tree. Everyone sprang into action with their cameras and camcorders! What a special moment!





When the eagle flew away, we settled back down and talked some more with Patti as she showed us some family albums and lots of photos of eagles, bears, whales, and to-die-for sunsets. Sadly, time was ticking away and we had a date with the Safari Spirit. Patti drove us to the dock and we arrived at exactly 5:30 p.m. The crew was ready and waiting for us. Patti introduced us to Captain Tate Grant, lead steward Kim Killingsworth, steward Kim Dahm, expedition leader Nitakuwa Barrett, engineer/mate Danny Blanchard, and chef Dave Gipson.


It was time to bid farewell to Patti and Petersburg and look ahead to a journey that promised the adventure of a lifetime! Check back soon to read more about this fabulous vacation. —Andrea






Photos © Leonard Hospidor and Andrea Rotondo and may not be used without permission

We're Off on an Alaskan Adventure!

I'm really not crazy about early morning flights—who is?—but sometimes you've got no choice. It's about 5:30 a.m. and we're heading to Newark International Airport where we'll hop a plane for the charming fishing town of Petersburg in Southeast Alaska (located on Mitkof Island between Ketchikan and Juneau).

We'll connect in both Seattle and Juneau, so it's going to be a looong day! (Thank goodness for access to Continental's President's Club in Seattle.) But all the traveling will all be worth it when we join American Safari Cruises' Safari Spirit yacht on Saturday and set sail on the Inside Passage toward Juneau.

If all goes smoothly, we'll be in Petersburg around dinnertime and will overnight at the Scandia House. On Saturday morning, we'll meet our fellow passengers and tour the town before embarking on the Safari Spirit at 5:30 p.m.

Wish us safe travels and happy sails and check back to read more about our Alaskan yachting adventure! —Andrea

Artwork courtesy of the Petersburg Chamber of Commerce

Crystal's 2009 Half-Price Itineraries Announced

It's vacation planning time! Most cruise lines recently unveiled their 2009 itineraries and Crystal Cruises is no different. Visit their website now and you'll find descriptions of all 2009 voyages.

Crystal also just issued its list of "Value Collection" sailings. These 50% off itineraries are generally only offered during shoulder season or on repositioning cruises, but in 2009 Crystal has expanded its list to include the Panama Canal, South America, the Med, New England/Canada, the Caribbean, and the Amazon.

If you haven't sailed Crystal before, one of these voyages may be the ideal entrée. Bill Smith, Crystal's senior vice president of sales and marketing, agrees: "With Value Collection, travelers can enjoy Crystal's superb service and luxurious amenities at significant savings. This offers a great opportunity to experience Crystal Cruises and understand why we've been voted world's best by travelers more than any other cruise line, hotel, or resort."

The itineraries offering up to 50% savings in 2009 are:

Panama Canal/Caribbean/Amazon
* February 16, Miami to Los Angeles, 14 days. From $3,595 on Crystal Symphony.
* May 7, Los Angeles to Miami, 16 days. From $4,995 on Crystal Serenity.
* November 22, Round-trip Miami, 7 days. From $2,480 on Crystal Serenity.
* November 22, Miami to Manaus, 13 days. From $3,990 on Crystal Symphony.
* November 29, Miami to Caldera, 11 days. From $3,775 on Crystal Serenity.
* December 10, Caldera to Miami, 11 days. From $3,775 on Crystal Serenity.

Western Europe/Mediterranean
* June 2, Lisbon to Venice, 12 days. From $5,070 on Crystal Serenity.
* June 7, Rome to London, 12 days. From $4,360 on Crystal Symphony.

New England/Canada
* October 1, Boston to Montréal, 7 days. From $2,575 on Crystal Symphony.
* October 30, Montréal to New York, 11 days. From $3,835 on Crystal Symphony.

Ocean Crossings
* March 9, Los Angeles to Hong Kong, 17 days. From $3,690 on Crystal Symphony.
* May 23, Miami to Lisbon, 10 days. From $3,540 on Crystal Serenity.
* November 12, Lisbon to Miami, 10 days. From $3,540 on Crystal Serenity.

For more information, contact your travel agent or call Crystal Cruises at 888-799-4625.

25k American Aadvantage Miles with Silversea

American Airlines Cruises is running a promotion that will net you 25,000 Aadvantage frequent flyer miles if you book select 2008 Alaskan or European cruise itineraries.

Alaskan Voyages
9 nights aboard the Silver Shadow (Vancouver, BC roundtrip)
August 1 and 27, 2008 (starting at $5,515pp)

10 nights aboard the Silver Shadow (San Francisco to Vancouver, BC)
July 13, 2008 (starting at ($5,940pp)

European Voyages
Scandinavia: 12 nights aboard the Silver Wind
July 2, 2008 (starting at $7,102pp)

Western Europe: 12 nights aboard the Silver Cloud
August 31, 2008 (starting at $7,461pp)

Baltics: 10 nights aboard the Silver Wind
July 16, 2008 (starting at $8,260pp)
August 19, 2008 (starting at $8,260pp)

British Isles: 12 nights aboard the Silver Wind
August 29, 2008 (starting at $9,925pp)

North Cape: 15 nights aboard the Silver Wind
July 21, 2008 (starting at $10,196pp)

Northern Europe: 15 nights aboard the Silver Cloud
August 5, 2008 (starting at $11,596pp)

To learn more about American Airlines Cruises or make a reservation, call 1-877-367-6070.

The Cruise Doc Dance! Alaska or Bust!

At the end of May, we decided to book a last-minute Alaska cruise and selected American Safari Cruises' Safari Spirit. The seven-night itinerary starting on June 21, dubbed Naturalists' Whale Country, embarks from Petersburg and winds through the Inside Passage to Juneau. Our documents arrived today and the trip is suddenly seeming very real!

For those of you who are unfamiliar with American Safari Cruises, they've been around for about ten years and cater to sophisticated travelers who prefer intimate yachts and hidden anchorages instead of huge multi-deck cruise ships and the more mainstream port towns of Skagway and Ketchikan.

The Safari Spirit, at 105 feet, is one of the company's mid-size vessels. Maximum guest capacity is 12 with a crew of five or six. (ASC's other yachts include the 36-passenger Safari Explorer, the 22-guest Safari Quest, the 12-guest Safari Escape, and the 6-guest Safari Legacy.)

The journey begins in Petersburg and heads through "glacier country" before swinging around the southernmost tip of Admiralty Island, cruising past Red Bluff Cove and Tenakee Hot Springs, and then crossing the Icy Strait to Juneau.

The yacht sails during the day and drops anchor each evening in protected coves and fjords that the large cruise ships will never be able to access. We booked a Mariner suite, the lowest category stateroom. It's outfitted with a queen bed, port holes, and bathroom with both a shower and Jacuzzi tub.

We were drawn to ASC by the nearly all-inclusive nature of cruise fare, which includes meet and greet services and transfers to and from the airport; shore excursions; all meals aboard the yacht; premium wine, beer, and liquor; kayaking and small-boat exploration; an onboard naturalist; and all taxes, port charges, and fees. What's not included is your airfare, travel insurance, and crew gratuities. (The suggested tip is 5 to 10% of your cruise fare.)

We also fell in love with the idea of exploring Southeast Alaska with a very small group of likeminded individuals. A naturalist travels on each itinerary and spends each day showing passengers the beauty of our 49th state. Daily activities aboard ASC yachts include kayaking, small-boat (skiff, Zodiac-like) excursions, hiking old-growth forests, whale watching, and much more.

We can't wait to embark on the Safari Spirit in June and we'll be sure to document our trip here on this blog. Stay tuned! —Andrea

Photo courtesy of American Safari Cruises