Visiting Orangutans at Camp Leakey with Orion II

Sometimes when you travel, if you're lucky enough, there are moments that are extraordinary… connecting with someone from a culture vastly different from your own, seeing an endangered animal up close for the first time in the wild, or simply watching the sun set in a brilliant blaze of yellow and red. It's rare that one day can hold so many special moments but it happened for us aboard Orion II on Sunday.

Every passenger on this ship was looking forward to visiting Camp Leakey at Tanjung Puting National Park. Dr. Birute Galdikas, who's been onboard lecturing since embarkation in Bali, has fought for and protected Tanjung Puting for the last forty years as part of her effort to study wild orangutans and rehabilitated ex-captive red apes. She put a stop to illegal logging here and made sure the practice of poaching animals was shunned by locals.

This place is incredibly special and worth protecting. The park is home to orangutans, proboscis monkeys, macaques, gibbons, clouded leopard, wild Borneo pigs, porcupines, Sambar deer, sun bears, crocodiles, monitor lizards, pythons and an incredible number of bird species such as hornbills and kingfishers.

Our day here started early. Half of the ship visited Camp Leakey on Day 1 of our visit to Tanjung while the other half went there on Day 2. This kept numbers somewhat reasonable but it still meant a large group (about 50) visited the camp together each day.

We loaded onto several zodiacs at 6:30am and traveled along the Sekonyer River for two hours. 

We stopped along the way within the national park to visit a feeding platform in the forest and saw almost a dozen orangutans, including a large adult male with cheek pads. It was a short, easy walk into the forest to the feeding station and we spent about 45 minutes there. The orangutans that come for the daily feedings are those ex-captive apes that were rehabilitated by Dr. Galdikas and her team and then released into the park. Some orangutans continue to return for the feedings and others disappear into the forest to fend for themselves for the rest of their lives.

It was amazing to stand so close to the orangutans, who didn't seem to mind that we were there. Today's meal was milk and the animals drank up with gusto!

Upon departing the feeding station, local boats called klotoks picked us up and took us upriver to Camp Leakey. The river passage was beautiful and we spotted dozens of proboscis monkeys and macaques along the way. Local guides and Orion expedition leaders were on each klotoks and took the time to point out the flora and fauna and explain more about Indonesian culture.

Orion II's chef packed lunches (two sandwiches, an apple and orange, guava juice, peanuts, cookies, and cake) for guests and we ate aboard the klotoks before going on a tour of Camp Leakey guided by Dr. Galdikas herself. This was an incredible opportunity to learn firsthand about orangutans and the plight of Borneo's ecosystem.

Here we walked along well-trodden paths and saw a gibbon, many orangutans, Borneo pigs, and macaques. The walk to the feeding platform was special since Princess, a longtime resident of Camp Leakey, and one of her offspring accompanied us down the path.

At the feeding station we saw many more orangutans enjoy a lunch of mangoes and play on the platform and in the trees above.

In addition to our group was a handful of Indonesia school children. It wasn't easy to communicate but it was clear both groups were enamored with these beautiful red apes.

By early evening we all loaded back into our klotoks and sailed back down the river. It was a magical evening… the sun set a brilliant red and was the perfect backdrop for photos of those large-nosed proboscis monkeys. As dusk approached, we spotted several owls and hornbills. When night fell around us, fireflies light up trees on both sides of the river… better than any Christmastime lighting spectacular!

The day was very special and makes this itinerary a must-do. In fact, if the cruise ended then and there, it would have still been worth the price of admission! Luckily though, this was just the beginning. Stay tuned for my next post, which will discuss our time at the Orangutan Care Center and Quarantine in the village of Pasir Panjang, near the town of Pangkalan Bun in Central Kalimantan.

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible

Photos © Leonard Hospidor.

Orion II Quick Tip: The Spa at Sea

Two sea days are part of our itinerary from Bali to Borneo to Singapore and I'm sure many travelers will spend some time relaxing in Orion II's spa. I'm not one for spa treatments but I do like having my hair done before the Captain's welcome reception.

Here's a look at spa options. (Prices are listed in Australian dollars.)

Hairdressing by De Lorenzo

• Shampoo, blow-dry, or set is $50–$60, depending on length of hair
• Simple comb-up to repair your existing blow dry or set from $27.50
• Men's haircut from $41
• Haircut with a shampoo and blow dry or set is $68.50–$77.50, depending on length of hair
• New hair color, regrowth retouch, gloss color, or highlights starting at $64
• Range of hair and scalp treatments to rebalance, restore, and protect from $32

Make Up by Jane Iredale

*natural, chemical-free mineral based make up is used on board

• Makeup application is $50
• Private makeup lesson is $50
• Eyelash tint and eyebrow shaping is $50

Hand and Foot Pampering Therapy

• Express manicure (nail file, buff, and polish) is $50
• Express pedicure (nail file, buff, and polish) is $68.50
• Essential hand indulgence (60 minutes) is $60
• Essential food and leg indulgence (60 minutes) is $77.50

Facials

*Jurlique skin care products are used

• Anti-Stress Facial (30 minutes) is $64
• Aromatherapy facial (60 minutes) is $95.50

Massage

*massage techniques range from Swedish, aromatherapy, lymphatic drainage, reflexology, remedial, sport injury, and deep tissue are employed

• Relaxing and therapeutic aromatherapy massage is $72.50 for 30 minutes, $112 for 60 minutes, and $160 for 90 minutes
• Remedial and deep muscle work out is $82 for 30 minutes, $120.50 for 60 minutes, and $168.50 for 90 minutes

Pampering Packages

• Venus Face and Body Experience (90 minutes that combine a massage and a facial) is $150
• Antioxidant Body Buff (60 minutes) is $114
• Total Body Travel Treatment (90 minutes) is $150
• Moor Mud Body Wrap (90 minutes) is $163.50
• Orion's Ultimate Top to Tow (120 minutes) is $200

A more complete spa menu can be found aboard Orion II.

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible

Orion II Faces in the Forest Itinerary Change

Prior to joining Orion II in Bali, I blogged about the trip and explained a bit about our intended itinerary, which takes us to several national parks for wild orangutan sightings as well as a few Indonesian and Malaysian cities. Well, the game plan has shifted a bit so I thought I'd share it with you.


Our Faces in the Forest itinerary now looks like this…

• Bali, Indonesia
• at sea
• Tanjung Putting for Camp Leakey, Indonesia
• Tanjung Putting for Camp Leakey, Indonesia
• at sea
• Pontianak, Indonesia
• Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia
• Bako National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia
• Pulau Natuna Besar, Indonesia
• Pulau Pu Bawah, Indonesia
• Singapore

So what's changed? Orion II will not call upon Gunung Palung National Park (Kalimantan). This is because the ship had to be very careful with the river tides in order to successfully arrive at Kumai, Kalimantan for our two days at Tanjung Putting National Park. Because of the tides, we wouldn't make it to Gunung Palung until late in the evening and it would be a wasted day. Instead, Orion shuffled the itinerary and added two days at different hideaway islands that offer some fantastic snorkeling: Pulau Natuna Besar and Pulau Pu Bawah.


Everyone seems happy with the change and Orion rolled out the news during our first sea day.

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible

Expedition team leader, Mick Fogg, is shown above as he explains the new Faces in the Forest itinerary to travelers during our first day at sea. Photo by Andrea M. Rotondo

Orion II Quick Tip: Laundry & Pressing Services

If you take any of Orion's expedition cruises to Borneo, I guarantee that you'll need to use the ship's laundry and pressing service. This part of the world is hot and humid and no matter how many quick-dry T-shirts and shorts you pack, you'll need to freshen them up a few times on the trip. (We're on day 4 of our cruise and have sent out two small batches of laundry to be done.)

Prices are reasonable and are quoted in Australian dollars.

Wash & Press

Socks/hosiery (pair) = $1.50

Underwear = $1.50

Nightgown = $3.00

Pyjamas (Pair) = $4.00

T-shirt = $2.50

Polo/Sports Shirt = $2.50

Blouse = $3.50

Shirt = $4.00

Sweatshirt = $3.75

Slip = $3.00

Skirt = $3.50

Shorts = $3.50

Pants = $4.00

Swimsuit = $2.50

Pressing-only service is also available.

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible

Boarding Orion Expedition Cruises Orion II in Bali

Yesterday afternoon we departedSt. Regis Bali and headed for Benoa Cruise Port to board Orion II, Orion Expedition Cruises' newly christened expedition ship. We weren't sure what to expect of the Benoa Cruise Port. We knew it would be small with few facilities and that's exactly what it turned out to be. 

The boarding process was super informal. Tracy Greiner, hotel manager, greeted us at the gangway and welcomed us on board. At the Reception desk on Deck 3, Jill took our photos and handed us our room keys and ID cards. Within two minutes, literally, we were in our suite. We're on Deck 5 and we've got a small balcony to enjoy when the mood strikes us. Luggage was delivered a few moments later and then we headed back down to the Main Lounge on Deck 3 to enjoy some champagne and light snacks (sandwiches, tarts, and brownies). Orion II's musician, Emilio Madrona, played piano throughout the welcome party.


The rest of the day went by in a flash... from the Sail Away Celebration on Deck 5 Aft to the mandatory life boat drill to an introduction to the crew and expedition team... it was time for dinner before we had much of a chance to explore Orion II.


Dinner is served during one sitting in the Restaurant on Deck 2 (and, occasionally, when weather permitting outdoors on Deck 5 Aft). Friday night's dinner was indoors and the menu consisted of beef carpaccio, seafood risotto, lamb shank (and a select of alternative main courses if you didn't go for the recommended degustation menu), and lemon panacotta for dessert.


Leonard and I still haven't acclimated to the time difference so we were very ready for bed after dinner!


Our first impressions of Orion II are good ones... lovely ship that really makes you feel like you're on a boat and not in some faceless resort at sea. The crew is friendly and knowledgeable and everyone truly seems enthusiastic about these new itineraries to Borneo. The passenger complement ranges from one family with children to several couples in their 40s/50s and the rest are retirees. So far we've met guests from Australia, Germany, Switzerland, and the United States.


We've got great expectations for this adventure! Saturday is a sea day during which we'll hear more from our expedition team and guest lecturer Dr. Birute Mary Galdikas.

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible

St. Regis Bali: A Few Photos & Thoughts

We arrived in Bali on Wednesday afternoon just as several other jets landed. We were getting ready for a long wait for our visa when we were greeted by a representative of St. Regis Bali. She took our passports, customs forms, and money for the visas and told as to stay put while she expedited things for us.

Within minutes she had our visas and we were waiting for our luggage (which took longer than you'd hope, but what can you do). As soon as we grabbed our bags, the rep hustled us through the airport and outside to our waiting car. Our driver provided us with cold towels, two bottles of watter, and two luscious chocolate truffles!

He then proceeded to whisk us to the resort in about 30 minutes. What a relief! After nearly 26 hours of travel, all we wanted was to get to the hotel, have a bite to eat, and go to bed! Check-in was done while sitting in the lobby, sipping tropical drinks.

We're just staying for two nights so we booked the lowest category room, a St. Regis Suite, using the SPG50 rate. For 1,000 SPG points plus $375/night, the rate includes airport transfers and the resort's famed breakfast buffet.

St. Regis Suite at the St. Regis Bali

As Seen Around St. Regis Bali

The resort is lovely and if I were to stay here again I'd definitely book a lagoon suite. These rooms have their own bales as well as direct access to the lagoon pool.

Here are a few of the things we like about this resort...

• Airport greeting/expediting service and complimentary airport transfers
• Excellent buffet breakfast with many made-to-order options
• Lovely and spacious room, even in the most basic category
• Helpful and friendly staff

Here are some of the "misses"...

• Housekeeping didn't arrive until after 12:30pm
• Food and wine prices are higher than they should be when compared to other luxury options in the area
• Nearby construction noise could be heard at the pool and some rooms have a view of the work site

Tomorrow we head to Benoa Cruise Terminal to board Orion II. We're looking forward to our Borneo adventure!

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible

Test Driving Cathay Pacific's New Business Class from New York to Bali

Very, very, very early this morning we'll take off from New York's JFK and head to Bali, where we'll spend a few days at the St. Regis Bali before embarking on our Camp Leakey itinerary with Orion Expedition Cruises.

With the forthcoming changes to British Airway's partner award chart (see The Points Guy's take on the situation), we decided to burn some BA miles and booked two business class tickets on Cathay Pacific.

We've flown the airline's first class product before and loved it (see our review of our Cathay Pacific first class Toronto to Bali transit last year) and so we're eager to test out their new business class seats.

I plan to take some photos of the new business class section but if you can't wait to see more, check out The Brooklyn Nomad's Cathay Pacific business class photo gallery.

On the way home from the cruise we're booked into Cathay Pacific's first class cabin (I can't wait to put on those Shanghai Tang PJs!) so it will be interesting to see how the two classes compare. We'll keep you posted.

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible

Delicious BBQ Dinner Under the Stars On Board Windstar Wind Surf

I've blogged about my admiration of Windstar Cruises many times. I love the line's three intimate motor-sail-yachts, the adventure-seeking contingent of guests, the calls on ports that the big ships can't get anywhere near, and the warm hospitality extended by every single member of the crew.

My second-ever cruise was a Caribbean itinerary aboard Windstar's Wind Surf. Since that time, it's always been one of my favorite ships. The romance of a ship sailing the seven seas is coupled with Windstar's attention to culinary adventures. All Windstar ships put on some of the best beach BBQs in the Caribbean, but now Wind Surf is also hosting a similar on-board experience with its Deck BBQ Dinner Under the Stars.

Watch this short video to get a peek at this special event presented by Wind Surf:

We were treated to this feast during our June cruise from Civitavecchi, Italy to Nice, France. The crew masterfully transformed the Pool Bar, Compass Rose, and Terrace Bar into a fairytale setting. There was plenty of seating arranged in tables for 2, 4, 6, and even several larger spaces for families and groups.

The event is weather permitting and we lucked out with a beautiful evening as we sailed out of Portofino. As guests were just taking their seats and Top Society and the Souljourn Duo were gearing up to play some fantastic music, a pod of dolphins appeared and decided that Wind Surf couldn't leave Portofino without a choreographed show that included lots of leaps out of the water and fins splashing! It couldn't have been planned any better!

We enjoyed a table for two by the pool and felt more relaxed than we had in months. Wind Surf chefs pulled out all the stops and I tried to carefully select from the buffet so I could try a little bit of almost everything. The focus was on guest favorites like lobster tails and ribs and nothing was fussy...just excellent food that you'd expect at a BBQ.

Sample Menu from Wind Surf 

Deck BBQ Under the Stars

roast suckling pig

pork ribs

beef and sausage skewers

grilled chicken

grilled filet of fish

lobster tails

crab legs

shrimp cocktail

corn on the cob

baked potatoes

fruit tempura

a variety of fruit salads

several salads

cheese tray

strawberry tarts

chocolate-covered strawberries

flan

chocolate cake

macaroons

ice cream

fresh fruit

and more

The experience was out-of-this world and just made me like Windstar even more. Everyone having a jolly old time and the waitstaff seemed truly happy to be racing all over the decks to pour drinks, clear plates, and joke with the guests.

That night the crew also put on its once-per-cruise Crew Show. It amazes me how much energy the Wind Surf team has! I can't thank the crew enough for making our Mediterranean cruise so special.

If you've ever thought about booking a Windstar cruise, I say "go for it!" This is not a luxury line but is high-end and it's definitely one of the best values in cruising today. (I've seen per person fares as low as $999 and the line often promotes cruises for an excellent price at Jetsetter.com.)

Windstar is also embarking on a massive $18 million refurbishment project, which will make these three motor-sail-yachts even more special. I'm looking forward to more shaded areas by the pool, improved onboard Internet services, refreshed public areas, and new decor in the cabins.

I'm already thinking about our next Windstar cruise... the Costa Rica itineraries look fun!

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible

Doc Dancing to Bali, Borneo & Singapore with Orion Expedition Cruises

It's amazing how much my mood improves whenever cruise documents arrive in our mailbox! I was out running errands the other day when my cell phone rang. It was my husband announcing that the docs for our upcoming Orion Expedition Cruises voyage had arrived! Yay! I couldn't wait to get home and read through all the materials.


If you want to take a peek at Orion's document folder, watch the short video I made. (Note that I misspoke in one section. I refer to Sarina Bratton as Orion's founder and managing editor...she's actually the managing director not editor! Sorry!)

This cruise, Camp Leakey Faces in the Forest, embarks Bali, sails the southern and western coastlines of Borneo, and disembarks in Singapore and it's one that we've been looking forward to for a long time. We fell in love with Bali last September when we visited to celebrate our anniversary and my husband's birthday. We've also had Borneo on our "must visit" list since we are very keen on seeing endangered orangutans in their natural habitat.


I've been enamored with orangutans ever since I read Dr. Birute Galdikas' memoir, Reflections of Eden: My Years with the Orangutans of Borneo. Dr. Galdikas is to the red ape what Dian Fossey was to mountain gorillas and Jane Goodall is to chimpanzees. She is the foremost authority on orangutans and is the founder of the Orangutan Foundation International. She also founded Camp Leakey in 1971 at Tanjung Puting National Park and has been researching the red ape there ever since. This Orion expedition is named after her camp.


Camp Leakey is a place where scientists can research the behavior and ecology of wild orangutans and travelers can visit to interact with these apes as well as many other animals like pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, and macaques.

Sarina Bratton, founder and managing director of Orion Expedition Cruises, spent several years researching and developing a series of Borneo cruises. The voyages are unique...mixing the best a luxury expedition ship can offer with calls on very off-the-beaten path destinations. There are five different Borneo-centric voyages and each one of them is special in its own right. They're so unique that some travelers have booked them all back-to-back.


Camp Leakey Faces in the Forest 10-Night Itinerary

• Embark from Benoa, Bali (we'll spend a few pre-cruise days at the St. Regis Bali)
• Sea day
• Two full days at the Tanjung Puting National Park (Kalimantan) for a visit to Camp Leakey
• One day at Gunung Palung National Park (Kalimantan)
• One day in Pontianak (Kalimantan)
• Two days in Kuching (Sarawak)
• One day at Bako National Park (Sarawak)
• Sea day
• Disembark in Singapore (our post-cruise stay will focus on the InterContinental Singapore)

Access to the Internet will be sporadic throughout the trip but I'll be blogging, tweeting, and posting photos whenever I can. In the meantime, I'll spend the next few weeks telling you more about this expedition cruise.

—Andrea M. Rotondo for Luxury Cruise Bible